Friday, October 18, 2013

To beach, or not to beach? That is a question.

We wound up our second day in Athens in the traditional style, ie in a bar. We found a very nice place called Beer Time in Iroon Square. Unlike many Greek establishments, this bar specialises in beer. with food as an accompaniment. The selection of beers is broader than usual. In  addition to the ever present Mythos and Alpha, the stock includes beers from Greek microbreweries and Various fine German brews, all available on draught and in quantities up to 3 litres. Dec went for a stein of a local beer (its name now lost to history) and another of a strong German lager, which may explain the memory lapse. Philippa did her bit to help drain the cellar, and we washed it all down with some very acceptable traditional Greek dishes. And so, to coin a phrase, to bed!

Friday dawned bright and sunny. The plan was to take a tram to the coast south of the city, enjoy a day on the beach, have a swim etc. Katerina (our landlady) has been a great help, providing tips on what to do. Today she suggested which beaches to go to and which to avoid so we packed the cossies and set off. We found the tram terminus at Syntagma Square, and paid our 1.40 euros each, which is very cheap for 90 minutes travel. Are you paying attention, Boris?
Dec validates our tickets. Philippa takes the pic.
The tram is slow but sure, especially on the congested roads in the centre, but before long we were trundling along the coast with the Med just a few metres away, beautiful and blue.

However, the beaches were either in private ownership or not that attractive so we decided to give the beach idea a miss. Instead, we window shopped in one of the towns which has grown up along the coast. It's an affluent place with marinas full of shiny boats large and small. Even so, we were astonished to see pairs of ladies' shoes in a style which can only be described as bling, retailing at over 700 euros. The Greeks are clearly not completely penniless.

Meat. Miles of yummy meat
Plenty of veg
En route back to our lodgings, we visited the Central Market, Athens' answer to London's Smithfield, Billingsgate and the old Covent Garden, rolled into one. There are dozens of butchers' and fishmongers' stalls under one roof, while across the road there are a dozen or more fruit and veg stalls, all very busy. This whole section of town abounds with places that sell cheap tools and household goods, too. Something for everyone!

THE WILDLIFE OF ATHENS. SOME OBSERVATIONS

In olden times, Philippa visited Athens with her first husband and the city was full of stray dogs and feral cats, which were rounded up and removed in time for the 2004 Olympics. No doubt they were all sent to live happily on a farm somewhere.

During Dec's only previous visit, with Philippa to see the 2006 Eurovision Song Contest, Athens was still realatively free of stray dogs. Now, though, they are starting to repopulate the city. They're not exactly a nuisance, being mostly docile old things, but we try to give them a wide berth - rabies is fairly low on our list of things to bring home from Europe. The dogs are mostly old, large dogs, some with collars and tags. We wonder if this is one aspect of the hard times. Maybe the cost of feeding them and vet's bills have led to the dogs being abandoned by their owners.

One other species of wildlife is making its presence felt. One or more mosquitos seem to have taken up residence in our room. For reasons best known to the mossies, only Dec is worthy of their attention. Every morning there's a new souvenir of their activities, and another thing on today's to-do list was the purchase of anti-histamine cream to spread on the bites. Why Dec is so blessed, we have yet to figure out.  

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