It's a short hop, relatively speaking, from Budapest to Vienna. About four hours on a modern train with all mod cons including wifi. With a distrust of on-train catering born on the rails of Southern Region and GWR, we had picked up another Langosh at a local cafe with the last of our Forints, and passed the time on board playing Cribbage. The time just flew by - especially for Philippa, who was on a winning streak - and before we knew it, it was time to leave the train and stride into Vienna.
Vienna's Westbanhof (main station) is very modern, all shiny glass and metal with classy shops on several levels. However the surrounding area is a lot like the area round most main line stations, scruffy and full of low-budget cafes and bars. And our hotel is just up the road! It's not a problem; the area is very safe, and the hotel is fine. We check in, freshen up and head out for our first look at this amazing city.
Vienna's public transport system includes a underground, trams and buses which you can use with a 48-hour pass (12 euro! bargain). We took the underground to Stephensplatz, the de facto centre of the tourist area. The square is dominated by the cathedral of St Stephen and by mobs of guys in Mozart-period costumes whose job seems to be to sell tickets to Mozart concerts. We avoid them, as we already have tickets for a show, of which more later.
We've done very little research on Vienna. We haven't even watched The Third Man! Our plan is to wander around the central area, consulting our (seven-year-old) guide book, and heading for tonight's venue in time for the show. The first item on the agenda is to pop into Loos' American bar. This is a tiny bar designed by Adolf Loos in the twenties and popular for some reason with expats. Its low lighting and dark walls give it atmosphere, the drinks are quite reasonable too.
Vienna's Westbanhof (main station) is very modern, all shiny glass and metal with classy shops on several levels. However the surrounding area is a lot like the area round most main line stations, scruffy and full of low-budget cafes and bars. And our hotel is just up the road! It's not a problem; the area is very safe, and the hotel is fine. We check in, freshen up and head out for our first look at this amazing city.
Vienna's public transport system includes a underground, trams and buses which you can use with a 48-hour pass (12 euro! bargain). We took the underground to Stephensplatz, the de facto centre of the tourist area. The square is dominated by the cathedral of St Stephen and by mobs of guys in Mozart-period costumes whose job seems to be to sell tickets to Mozart concerts. We avoid them, as we already have tickets for a show, of which more later.
We've done very little research on Vienna. We haven't even watched The Third Man! Our plan is to wander around the central area, consulting our (seven-year-old) guide book, and heading for tonight's venue in time for the show. The first item on the agenda is to pop into Loos' American bar. This is a tiny bar designed by Adolf Loos in the twenties and popular for some reason with expats. Its low lighting and dark walls give it atmosphere, the drinks are quite reasonable too.
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| The cake, midway through demolition. |
We follow our noses and find various interesting places such as the Albertina, a gallery we intend to visit. However it's Sunday afternoon and almost everywhere is closed. We stop at the Museum Cafe for a meal. Philippa yields to the impulse and orders a delicious-looking chocolate cake, a Mozart Torte. Hey, we're on holiday!
Before long it's time to head for our concert which is taking place in the Musikverein, a venue world-famous for the annual New Years Day concert. We enter the building and find ourselves in the famous auditrioum - it's amazing, a lot smaller than you'd expect if you've seen it on TV and a riot of gold leaf and red plush. Philippa has managed to obtain tickets in the middle of the sixth row which is just about the best place to be. Well done P!
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| Musikverein. Cosy and Kitsch! |
Tonight's concert consists of a symophony and two arias by Mozart, and Mahler's 4th symphony - both composers have a connection to the city. It's a great performance, an amazing experience and we leave the hall feeling very positive towards Vienna and its famous sons. We pop on the underground and are back at the hotel in 10 minutes. Time for an early night.
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